A class act: Glamour and splendid isolation at
a self-catering chateau
An
area liberally sprinkled with towers and pinnacles, walled towns and wineries,
it can be hard to make a splash in the French region of Languedoc.
But
Chateau Les Carrasses is certainly holding its own. Poised above a charming
canal-side village and less than an hour from Montpellier, the white façade of
this former winery has more than a touch of Hollywood glamour about it.
Inside,
I find myself gently enveloped in class. Farrow and Ball decor? Check. In-room
pre-loaded iPod and dock? Check. Walk-in showers? Need you ask. From my
north-facing windows, there are views over the Orangerie, a delicate structure
designed (or so it is alleged) by Gustave Eiffel - he also constructed quite a
well-known tower you are probably familiar with.
Suites
on the opposite side of the Chateau benefit from a sweeping panorama that takes
in the bulk of Narbonne’s 13th century cathedral and the far-off outline of the
Pyrenees.
Come
supper time, I am far too relaxed to raise a finger in my Smeg appliance-fitted
kitchen, so I wander down to the Salon where head chef and former New York
Times food writer Anne d’Ravel serves up the sweetest scallops I’ve ever
tasted.
Though
the Chateau opened its doors less than a year ago, founder Karl O’Hanlon (yes,
he’s a Dubliner) speaks proudly about the number of repeat bookings they've had
already.
It’s
easy to see why guests would want to return. The Chateau couldn’t be better
located: the fortified city of Carcassonne, a World Heritage Site, is seventy
minutes away; Beziers, with its thirteenth-century cathedral and notable Musee
des Beaux Arts, is thirty minutes’ drive, and Narbonne, home to a fabulous,
daily indoor food market, twenty. Roman, Renaissance and Medieval treasures,
all waiting to be explored.
My
mini-break, however, begins in pretty-as-a-picture Bouziques. This pastel,
harbour-side town is a heaven for seafood lovers, with boat trips offering a
close-up view of the region’s celebrated oyster beds.
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